![]() Once you see what’s going on, it’s quite simple. It difficult to describe this process since most of it happens behind the fabric, but this blog has some good images and explains the process well. I would plan on starting at the inseam, since you can easily hide your knot in the seam allowance (and also this area isn’t really easy to see so it’s ok if you mess up a bit). Knot only one end of the fabric with your choice of knot (I do it like this, as shown in step 2). Start by getting around 2 feet of thread and passing it through your needle. We’ll pass the needle through this fold of fabric, only poking out every now and again to grab just a couple of threads of fabric from the outside. The main trick of the blind stitch is to move the needle through the “tunnel” that we created by folding the seam allowance inward. ![]() We’ll be using what is called a blind stitch, which is a simple and effective way to close everything up while keeping the thread invisible. You may want to throw a few pins in there to make sure that everything stays in place, as well. I find it easiest to press the hem first and then the seam allowance second, but do it however works best for you. This creates a little “cuff” on the inside of your pant legs. This time, we’ll be pressing at the folded hem (like before) but also folding the seam allowance under. Now that we have everything where we need it to be, it’s time to press your pants again. Just make sure that all your measurements are correct before slicing into your nice stuff. It can be scary to take scissors to your expensive clothing, but remember that the place you’re cutting won’t even be visible once you’re done. Once you’re confident that everything looks good, go ahead and cut at the edge of the seam allowance. So from bottom to top in the picture above, you’ll see my new hem location ironed in, the 1 1/2″ of fabric, the 1/4″ of seam allowance, the original hem, and the original raw edge (that I had to open with the seam ripper). This will create our seam allowance, which will keep the raw fabric edge from showing and also will help us make the seam invisible. ![]() Next, add 1/4″ to the length that you marked. You could also use tailor’s chalk or some machine-washable tool to mark this, but it won’t show anyway so I didn’t really care. I opted for 1 1/2″ and marked this with a pencil and ruler, again making sure that I was accurately measuring all the way across the pant leg. It’s standard to leave 1 1/2 -2″ of fabric beyond the hem so that everything hangs cleanly (and so that you can lengthen the pants later if needed). You can then unfold them and use the seam ripper to open up the existing hem stitching (if you’re taking enough off this may not be necessary, but it’s helpful even if just to have the pants lay flat). Once you have your new hem spot evenly folded on both legs, give them a good iron to set in the crease. For example, I was removing 3 5/8″ of fabric, so I measured that all along both legs to make sure that the hem was straight. Make sure that the hem is even across the full leg opening. Once you have your hem pinned, turn the pants inside-out and fold both legs up at your hem mark. You can also measure the hem length on a pair of pants that you already like, but note that this isn’t always going to be a good reference if the rise of the two pairs fit differently. Put a pin in the bottom of the fold to hold everything in place. ![]() Once you’re ready, put them on and fold them inwards until you find the length you like (or better yet, have someone else help you so you can stand straight). If you’re planning on hemming a pair of machine-washable trousers (like these) I’d recommend washing them first so that any shrinkage is removed. On heavier, coarser fabrics (like this cotton twill) the stitching will be slightly visible, but on fine woolens they will be almost impossible to see if you do a good job.įirst we need to decide where we’re going to hem these pants. I’m using a pair of Lost Monarch chinos here (now in stock!), which come at 35″. But this works great for things like chinos and dress pants, where you want the hem to be clean. This won’t work for things like jeans, where you want the hem to be visible – you’ll need a machine for that. What we’re discussing here is called a blind hem, where the stitching is nearly invisible. As an avid do-it-yourself-er, I’ve been hemming my pants for a while now and find it to be a relatively simple and highly satisfying task. None are easier than the humble hem – a half hour of your time and a few household tools is all that you need. While it’s true that a good tailor is an essential resource for having well-fitting tailored clothing, there are some things that are simple to you yourself. We’ve all been there – riding high on the purchase of a new pair of pants, only to realize that we have to spend more money and continue to wait before we can wear them.
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